California Native Plant Society
Orange County Chapter Newsletter
September/October 2002—PLANT SALE
OCTOBER 5
To introduce our Annual Plant
Sale, this issue will be largely devoted to horticultural tips and topics. We
begin with the words of Mike Evans from his talk to us last year, a message
that everyone should hear…again and again.
California's
Mediterranean climate makes our state a wonderful place in which to live.
Perhaps no place on earth can boast such a tremendous variety of horticultural
choices. California's native flora is even more amazing, featuring nearly 5000
plant types with approximately half of those endemic: that is they are found
only in California. Native plant gardens have been admired for decades as they
attractively suggest a sophisticated feeling of authentic California.
Most
of the present day land development is located at the wild land interface.
Landscaped freeways link our communities. Right or wrong, these kinds of
large-scale projects and their "commercial" landscapes become the
modern models for decorating outdoor space. Land planners have an opportunity,
the responsibility, to exemplify resource and water conservation, wildlife
values and regional authenticity by planting natives in these highly visible
landscapes.
Unfortunately,
regionally authentic plants are absent from the majority of these
"model" gardens, and if a few native varieties are found growing
with numerous exotic plants, they
are present because they met some criteria such as fast growth for shade
or screening. Often natives are brought in simply to fix a problem or do a
job. They are categorized for "erosion control," "drought
tolerance," "low maintenance," or "water conservation."
None of these haphazard or mechanical considerations make for the best use
of natives, given that they are so beautiful and deserve a prominent place
in our gardens. California's population also deserves to enjoy the best
By
contrast the "California Garden" is defined as an extension of California's
personality. It is designed with a strong emphasis on native plants placed in
naturalistic groupings for casual use and enjoyment. Informal walkways, sitting
areas and patios offer views into favorite "theme" settings. There is plenty of seasonal color and
room for wildlife, birds, pollinators, and imagination. The "California
Garden" is tended nature in miniature.
To
achieve this high standard and showcase the subtle beauty of California, the
designer calls on an ethic of wilderness.
It's what Edward Abbey called "loyalty to the land." If we truly
appreciate and love wild California, we will, as horticulturists, desire
to mimic wildness in our patio gardens. With an ethic of involvement, we see ourselves as an
integral part of the garden, not detached or labeled as a mere owner,
designer, installer. worker or user. This is what Aldo Leopold
called living as a "…plain member and citizen of the land
community." Ultimately, the California Garden embodies an ethic of giving. Barry Lopez called it "…respectful
human participation in the landscape."
It's
not about the plants. It's about generosity. It's about giving back to the land
and giving one self the pleasure and satisfaction of loving, getting involved,
and tending for a garden modeled after the natural beauty of a region. It's
about giving to everyone that sees and enjoys your handiwork, the opportunity
to experience the "California Garden"—and all that it represents.
Mike Evans,
Tree of Life Nursery
Sep 12..... Board Meeting
Sep 19.. Chapter Meeting
Sep 21... Crystal Cove Walk
Oct 5... PLANT SALE
Oct 10..... Board Meeting
Oct 17.. Chapter Meeting
Oct 19....... SCB Symposium
Nov 9...... GWC Work Day
Nov 14.... Board Meeting
Nov 16.. Crystal Cove Walk
Nov 21. Chapter Meeting
Dec 12.... Board Meeting
Dec 19. Chapter Meeting
Dec 21.. Crystal Cove Walk
Thurs, 10-1 UCI arboretum
Chapter meetings are held on the third Thursday of the month at the
Irvine Ranch Water District headquarters at 15600 Sand Canyon Ave., Irvine.
Doors open at 7 p.m. and the meeting begins at 7:30. Wildflower posters and a
wide variety of books are available at the meeting
Directions: From the Santa Ana Freeway (I 5) exit on
Sand Canyon Road west. Pass Irvine
Center Drive. Turn left at the next light onto Waterworks Road, then left into
the IRWD parking lot. From the 405 exit east
on Sand Canyon/Shady Canyon, turn right on Waterworks and left into the parking
lot. Enter the building from the rear.
Once
one delves into natives beyond the familiar trees and shrubs, it is surprising
how many of these plants are appropriate for smaller areas. Mr. O’Brien will
present an array of California native plants that work well in containers, rock
gardens, perennial borders, and other small spaces in the garden.
As
Director of Horticulture at Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden, Bart O’Brien is
intimately familiar with our native flora in a garden setting. In addition, he
is an entertaining speaker. Here will be inspiration for the fall planting
season!
We
had such a good time at our spring plant ID workshop that we decided to follow
up with a fall session. Since shrubs and small trees form the backbone of our
native landscape and are not entirely dependent on flowers for their
identification, we will tackle some of the more common members of this group.
Saturday, November 9, 9 AM
to 1 PM
Enjoy
a few hours among the native plants at Golden West College, digging and
planting, watering and weeding—whatever tasks are at hand. This is a worthy
garden that really needs some attention from us!
Work
will begin at 9 AM with a demonstration of correct planting procedures and
finish up by 1 PM at which time we will enjoy a tasty lunch.
Golden
West College is located at 15744 Golden West Street, Huntington Beach. To get
there, take Beach Blvd. north off the 405 Freeway. Immediately turn left on
McFadden. Follow McFadden to Golden West Street and turn left again. Take the
first legal left turn off Golden West into the parking lot and drive
across it toward the Automotive Technology Building. Follow signs to the garden
The
campaign continues; fall brings its own varieties of weeds! Additional crew is
always welcome; just come to the Arboretum on Thursdays around 9:30 AM,
or earlier to beat the heat. It’s OK to weed for just an hour or so. Every weed
removed means fewer seeds to germinate next year! Hat, gloves, water, sturdy
work shoes, sunscreen are advised; bring your favorite weeding implement if
possible.
From
the 405 Freeway, take Jamboree Road south to Campus Drive. Turn east on Campus,
very shortly turn right onto a campus service road, then left into the
Arboretum’s drive-in gate. Park in the gravel area behind the greenhouses. If
that’s full, park in the campus lot across the way and feed the meter (parking
passes may be available.
Saturday, Oct. 19, 2002, 9 AM to 3 PM
The 28th
annual symposium will feature four papers and a panel discussion on the
rare plants of Southern California. This year's SCB symposium, jointly
sponsored by the California Native Plant Society and the Biology Department of
California State University, Fullerton, will be held at the Ruby Gerontology
Center, California State University, Fullerton. Pre-registration by mail before
October 15th is $35.00; registration at the door, starting at 8 AM, is $45.00.
The symposium fee includes a one-year membership in SCB, 2002 year for new
members, 2003 year for current members. Members receive 6 issues of Leaflets
and 2 issues of Crossosoma. SCB books and T-shirts will be on sale during
registration and breaks. More information, including registration forms,
abstracts, and travel instructions will be posted on the SCB website, www.socalbot.org,
as it becomes available. Mailing address: Southern California Botanists,
Department of Biology, California State University, Fullerton CA 92834.
Come to the Rally on October
12, 1-4 PM, to support a better fate for the Dana Point Headlands. The Rally
will be held at the Dana Point Community House, 24642 San Juan Street, Dana
Point. From I-5 take Hwy 1 (PCH) north to Street of the Golden Lantern. Turn
left on Golden Lantern, then immediately right on San Juan. The Community House
is halfway down the block, on the left. Contact: dphc@cox.net.
OC CNPS is part of the environmentalists’ coalition
sponsoring the Rally. The Dana Point Headlands Conservancy is spearheading the
effort, which also includes Surfrider Foundation, Sierra Sage/Sierra Club,
Endangered Habitats League, and many citizens of Dana Point.
The future of the 121-acre Headlands property will be
decided when the California Coastal Commission hears the issue, possibly in
January, 2003. Commission staff is currently reviewing the proposed Local
Coastal Plan Amendment for the area.
Commission
staff pointed out, during the EIR period, that the proposed Headlands
development plan violates several Coastal Act policies. Despite this, the Dana
PointCommission staff pointed out, during the EIR period, that the proposed
Headlands development plan violates several Coastal Act policies. Despite this,
the Dana Point City Council approved the plan essentially as submitted by the
site’s owner.
Much
help is needed to apply lobbying pressure at the appropriate points, both
before and at the hearing!
The
SCORE Land Use Task Force for Rancho Mission Viejo has continued biweekly
meetings through the summer. Discussion continues on balancing community needs
with sensitive habitat information provided by the resource agencies (US Fish
& Wildlife, Cal Fish & Game, US Corps of Engineers and the Orange
County Environmental Planning Dept.). Task Force meetings will continue through
September.
—Celia Kutcher, Chapter
representative to SCORE and the Dana Point Headlands Conservancy
Reprinted
with permission from the LA/Santa Monica Mountains Chapter newsletter
For
any garden—in a canyon, on a slope, in an urban yard, perched on a rooftop or
even planter boxes, tubs and pots enclosed by balcony railings—the amount of
sun exposure versus dappled to total shade, the sources of water available, the
type of soil, the type of drainage, the altitude and other environmental
factors (i.e. wind, fog, salty or dusty air, seasonal temperature changes) will
determine what species of plants will do well, whether they are native or
non-native plants.
How
does one analyze an urban habitat? Tall buildings become cliff faces with the
same deep shade and harsh wind conditions as a long, steep-sided narrow canyon
punctuated by narrow side canyons. Stucco walls or sidewalks may leach lime
into adjacent flowerbeds, raising the pH. Wall colors and textures may absorb
or reflect light, either mimicking a forest wall of trees or a bank in a desert
wash. Street trees, street easement landscaping and irrigation become riparian
habitat affecting the citizen's garden.
The
soil may be topsoil original to the site, sterile subsoil, soil contaminated
with construction debris, compacted, claypan, or all of the above including
previous owners' gardening efforts. The size of the garden and its placement in
relation to other structures (i.e. walls, foundations, sewer lines or septic
tanks) may preclude planting large trees with correspondingly large,
penetrating root systems.
All
these factors are easily measured using a thermometer, sketches of shade
patterns, maps of the garden in relation to other structures, maps locating
existing irrigation or underground structures affecting the planting area, a
moisture meter (or a calibrated finger), observations of local weather
conditions (wind, dust, fog, etc.) and doing some judicious digging with a
spade in the planting area. Having these data on potential garden sites enable
the gardener to visit a native plant nursery, botanic garden or a native plant
sale, ask informed questions, obtain accurate advice and buy plants with a good
chance of success.
Urban
citizens often view native flora as something unkempt and untamable, whether
these citizens are environmental activists, or, more often, whether they are
curious about native/non-native plants as viewed from car windows while stuck
in the twice daily commuter traffic jam. These superficial impressions about
native flora become a problem when the result is native plants placed
helter-skelter in a front yard with no water and no care.
Cities
usually have guidelines, sometimes regulations, on the types of landscaping
allowed in front yards, especially in architecturally controlled neighborhoods.
What can be defined environmentally as open savanna bounded by fencing or
hedges under a certain height is the norm for most planning department
regulations.
The
persistent gardener might transform the front yard savanna into a native grass
meadow with annuals in groups or interspersed with bunchgrasses in attractive
patterns. Boulders, railroad ties, swales, wandering paths or other non-living
elements can break up the banality of a flat grassy yard and emphasize the
artistic side of landscaping. Many native shrubs such as lemonade berry (Rhus integrifolia), Rhamnus species,
and Berberis species train nicely
into hedges. Native annuals: Clarkia species,
clovers (Castilleja species), poppies
(Eschscholzia species), Lasthenia species, tidy tips (Layiaplatyglossa), Lupinus species, Nemophila species, Phacelia species, etc., make beautiful accents in beds or along sidewalks.
Maintenance and planning are the keys to success in
these front yard landscapes. For example, every month of the year in southern
California there are some native plant species either in bloom or loaded with
colorful fruits or seeds. Planning for seasonal changes utilizing species
having different flowering or fruiting times, using pleasing combinations of
shape and texture of seeds, leaves and bark along with judicious cleaning and
pruning provides a year‑round joy to both homeowner and passersby. There
is no reason why
the native plant garden or landscape cannot be always graceful and glorious.
If
the gardener wishes to produce a garden with the architecture of a particular
plant community, the backyard may be preferable as a place to experiment until
the gardener has a better understanding of which trees, shrubs and herbs will
dominate, persist or be ephemeral in this backyard vegetative association. To
attract and support local butterflies, birds and other local fauna, the plant
community structure is the best type of garden.
Plant
community architecture implies that species of herbs, small shrubs, tall shrubs
and perhaps trees known to grow in vegetative associations in the wild will be
planted in natural groupings in the garden. Typical plant communities in
southern California are coastal sage scrub for hotter, drier locations;
chaparral for slightly cooler, dry locations; riparian for wetter, shadier
locations, grassland for flat, hot, thin soil locations. Native grassland and
coastal sage scrub habitat requirements are essentially the same, except for
topography. Coastal sage scrub is more often found on dry, hot, windy slopes in
nutrient‑poor soil, while grassland habitat generally is flat meadows,
mesa tops or dry valley bottoms. Consider grassland to be coastal sage scrub
without the shrub layer.
Coastal
sage scrub architecture combines a shrub layer with shrubs generally under six
feet in height, sometimes including cactus (chiefly Opuntia species), with a rich herb layer populated by herbaceous
perennials, grasses, annuals and bulbs. Typical shrubs are bladderpod (1someris
arborea), lemonade berry (Rhus
integrifolia) and species of buckwheat (Eriogonum),
sagebrush (Artemisia), sage (Salvia), and sunflowers (Encelia). Deerweed (Lotus scoparius) and perennial species of monkeyflowers (Mimulus) and Penstemon are found in both coastal sage scrub and chaparral
habitats. Various species of needlegrass (Nassella)
are common in the understory as are the annual flower species listed
earlier.
Chaparral
architecture may have a sparse tree layer of isolated trees of coast live oak (Quercus agrifolia) or small groves of
California walnut (Juglans californica) and/or
Mexican elderberry (Sambucus mexicana) where
more water is available. Basically chaparral is dominated by tall shrubs and
small trees, ten to twenty feet in height, though there is a rich understory of
smaller shrubs and woody perennials. Toyon (Heteromeles
arbutifolia) is a favorite choice of small tree with gardeners. Some common
chaparral shrubs are chamise (Adenostomafasciculatum),
hollyleaf cherry (Prunus ificifolia),
mountain mahogany (Cercocarpus
betuloides) and species of Ceanothus,
Rhamnus, Rhus, manzanita (Arctostaphylos),
scrub oak (Quercus). The herb layer
may be sparse to abundant depending on the density of shrubs. Vines ranging
from woody species of Clematis, honeysuckle
(Lonicera) and wild grape (Vitis girdiana) to seasonal species of
morning glory (Calystegia) and wild
cucumber (Marah) compete in the wild
for canopy space with the ever-present poison oak (Toxicodendron diversilobum). Poison oak is not recommended for any
garden habitat.
Riparian
architecture represents native flora living by seasonally flowing watercourses,
year‑round streams, seeps or springs. The tree layer is abundant. Often
the trees are deciduous, i.e. sycamore (Platanus
racemosa) and species of maple (Acer),
cottonwood (Populus), alder (Alnus), ash
(Fraxinus) and willow (Salix). The shrub layer ranges from tall shrubs like the fragrant
mulefat (Baccharis salicifolia) to
spreading, bushier species, i.e. blackberries (Rubus), currants/gooseberries (Ribes)
and roses (Rosa). The herb layer
contains annuals, ferns and grasses. Again various species of vines accent the
tree and shrub canopies.
Whole
gardens, with or without plant community architecture, can be designed with
containers for balconies, paved patios or reinforced rooftops. Conditions are
more restricting and the plant palettes available are more limited. Native
plants having slow‑growing or small root systems do well in containers
with some extra care and water.
There
is plenty of information about native plant gardening on the web, from native
plant nurseries to the CNPS State website and local CNPS Chapter websites.
Unfortunately these wonderful sources do not agree about the characteristics of
all California flora available for gardens. Some judgment and experimentation
is required for native plant gardening. All gardening is an adventure full of
surprises.
—Betsey
Landis, author of Southern California Native Plants for School Gardens
Fall
Planting is just ahead, a great time of the year for additions to your native
plant garden that welcome and support butterflies. They need your help. After
last winter, with the severe lack of rain, the numbers of butterflies have
dropped dramatically. Fewer butterfly eggs have hatched and the larva (or
caterpillars) that did emerge found less food of inferior quality. A lot of wildflowers never
made it to bloom, which robbed adult butterflies of delicious nectar. The
females, in turn, laid fewer eggs. The yearly count in June showed how shocking
it was. For instance, last year’s count at Rancho Mission Viejo Land
Conservancy found more than500 Common (California) Ringlets. This year, fewer
than 100 were counted. The Ringlet is a grassland butterfly that lays its eggs
on native bunch grasses. The caterpillars that hatch enjoy dining on the
delectable blades of grass. When the grassland dries up too early due to lack
of winter moisture, there is not enough food for the caterpillars. This is all
part of a natural cycle, and the butterflies will recover with winters of rain.
Won’t they? Or will we reach a critical mass with the loss of habitat? Let’s
consider how a native plant garden can help.
As
described earlier, butterflies use plants in two ways. A female adult butterfly
usually lays her eggs on select plants, known as food or larval host plants.
These are the plants that the caterpillars consume. Adult butterflies need
plants that provide nectar. Some plants,like some of the buckwheats, are both
larval host and nectar plants. Our native plant sale this fall is a great place
to obtain plants that are used by butterflies.
The
layout of a butterfly garden is important too. Larval host trees and shrubs,
along the perimeter of the garden, will entice various butterflies to take a
chance and dance in the sunlight. Trees such as oaks, aspen, willow, and
sycamore not only provide welcomed relief from the blazing sun and harsh drying
winds, but also an opportunity for females to propagate the next generation.
Some shrubs can become as big as a small tree offering a place for under story
plants to nestle. These edges between trees, shrubs, and under story plants
provide a smorgasbord of vegetation, not only working as larval food plants,
but also offering a variety of habitat types. Trees give the garden vertical
layering, producing shady microclimates. Shrubs can diversify the garden
horizontally and protect the smaller shade-loving plants. Depending on their
orientation shrubs can produce different sun exposures.
Vines
like the native honeysuckle (Lonicera spp) and the spectacular San
Miguel Coral Vine can also do double duty. While the “wandering ways” of vines
offer cover for wildlife, the Variable Checkerspot caterpillars also find the
honeysuckle delectable. The Coral Vine would tempt the Common Hairstreak to
while away part of the day nectaring and laying eggs in the protection of this
beautiful vine. Many times I have watched a butterfly maneuver in and around
the vines, searching for a shady spot to lay her eggs, sometimes almost
disappearing from view among the foliage, only to reappear again when the job
is done. Many butterflies will select the more sheltered and shady parts of the
plant on which to lay their eggs. This care protects the eggs from desiccation.
Many
species of butterflies can be found in riparian communities gliding about the
treetops and coursing along the waterways. They stop to sip water and other
nutrients from the moist mud and sand. The boulders and rocks in and along the
stream, when warmed by the sun, turn butterflies into sun worshippers. This
same environment can be reproduced in your garden. When the planting is done,
and the stage is set, place your garden bench in a cool shaded area, so you can
relax and enjoy the show.
—by
Sandra Huwe, Butterfly Gardener
Several
years ago I decided to convert my town house garden (with a postage stamp-sized
yard) to California native plants. I started by tearing out all my camellias,
azaleas, fuchsias (except for two that I had espaliered along an entry wall in
1980), Baby Tears (which still tries to re-establish itself in shady hidden
areas) and various other exotics.
Without
taking the time to make a plan, or organize sun vs. shade or wet vs. dry areas,
I went to Tree of Life and purchased a trunkful of natives that I had seen on
hikes in local areas. After planting them randomly, over the next few weeks I
made several more trips and was pleased with the beauties I’d purchased. I
dreamed of a beautiful, lush garden of California natives.
It
didn’t take me long to learn that beautiful and lush are not adjectives to use
when describing native plants. Yes, there are times when a native plant can be
overwhelming in its beauty: the California Wild Lilac (Ceanothus, sp.)
with its tiny but showy blue to purple flowers in masses on shiny green leaves,
the Western Redbud (Cercis occidentalis) in spring as it bursts into
deep magenta clusters on leafless branches, or the Matilija Poppy (Romneya
coulteri) with its unique, large white “fired egg” flowers.
The
first spring I had a few Coral Bells (Heuchera, sp.), lots of California
Columbine (Aquilegia Formosa), a few Douglas Iris (Iris douglasiana),
and a few (very few) California Honeysuckle (Lonicera hispidula) blooms
along with some other less interesting specimens. As summer wore on, it didn’t
get better. On top of the lack luster of my garden, I found out about watering
problems. I lost some of my favorites due to over watering: Woolly Blue Curls (Trichostema
lanatum), Bush Poppy (Dendromecon rigida), and Hillside Gooseberry (Ribes
californicum) to name a few.
I
tried to cope with my garden problems for another year but it went from bad to
worse as more of my yard became dirt and less of it even looked alive most of
the time. Many plants that survived didn’t seem to grow bigger or produce
flowers such as the Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia) and Manzanita (Arctostaphylos,
sp.) that looked healthy but refused to grow larger than the one gallon size
I’d planted. The one plant that grew and took off (and I do mean took off) was
the California Fuchsia (Epilobium canum)—it was so invasive it came up everywhere.
I was
discouraged! I gave up the native plant idea and started adding any plants that
people gave me, or ones I propagated from other people’s gardens. I had a great
time just putting any plant in anywhere in a hodgepodge manner. I began to seek
plants that were different or unusual and avoided the Home Depot-type regulars.
Now
I’m having a great time and some of the natives are still with me. When I
stopped babying the Toyon and left it alone, it decided to grow (now at least
eight feet tall) and this year it produced flowers for the first time! The
Manzanita is now taking over its section of my garden. The Fuchsia Flowered
Gooseberry (Ribes speciosum) is doing well (even though insects ate all
of the new, tender shoots on each branch) and the Bladder Pod (Cleome
isomeris) has to be trimmed regularly (a challenge only because of its odor
when I touch it). Mahonia (Berberis, sp.) and Currant (Ribes,
sp.) are now taller than the wall they were planted to cover, and after three
years some (two out of six) of the Penstemons have bloomed. This year the
flowers of the Mallow (Lavatera, sp.) were so profuse it was almost
impossible to get to my front door. A False Indigo (Amorpha californica)
that I though had died the first year I planted it now is taking over the
plants around it. These natives live happily along with my espaliered Fuschia,
Nandina, and apple tree and others. Tending my garden is never boring! A bonus
is the birds that visit.
Through
all of this, I’ve learned a few things about the natives I still have and that
are doing well: 1) natives take longer to get established; 2) natives are
harder to transplant after once established; and 3) natives generally are more
particular about the amount of water they will or won’t tolerate. Also I have
found there are natives you can plant in areas that are shaded or that
regularly get more water: California Ginger (Asarum lemmonii), Scarlet
Monkeyflower (Mimulus cardinalis), Creek Monkeyflower (Mimulus
gattatus), and Hooker’s Evening Primrose (Oenothera elata, ssp. hirsutissima)
to name a few.
A
friend once referred to my garden as eclectic which I really think in my case
is a nice word for mishmash. It will never rival Dan Songster’s beautiful blend
of native and non-native, but it’s fun for me to work in and no matter what
plant I get, I can always find a spot to plant it because it won’t upset any
landscape plan!
In
these late, dry days of summer, my thoughts turn to the fall planting
season—now not too far away—and hopes of rain. Out in the wild, most native
plants are doing pretty much what’s expected of them—lemonade berries have
ripened, wild clematis bear their powder puff seed heads, California sage brush
is gray and withered in summer dormancy. It’s the non-native annual grasses
that make our hills look dreary.
My
native plant garden closely follows nature’s pattern. The late summer color
palette is subtle hues of beige, gray-green, and brown. Regal St. Catherine’s
lace is topped with huge, doily-like flower heads, now rust colored. Smaller
buckwheats echo the color. Brilliant red trumpets of California Fuchsia poke
through here and there throughout the garden, late summer’s treat. Skeletal
remains of Golden Stars and Ithuriel’s Spear commemorate spring, past and to
come. This late summer garden does not declare its beauty. At first glance, it
looks tired and dusty. It is in the vignettes, the contrasts of color, texture,
and structure that beauty is discovered.
Stepping
from the unnatural green of watered turf and non-native shrubs and trees, I
tend to be a little defensive about the look of my summer native garden. “Oh,
you should see it in the spring!” I might say. But I have only to spend some
contemplative time there to fully restore my confidence and begin plotting
where to put in the plants that I will inevitably buy at the fall plant sales.
—Sarah
Jayne, Native Plant Gardener
Louise
Lacey, author of Growing Native, the newsletter of the Growing Native
Research Institute, ceased publication with the September/October, 2000, issue.
The fifty-nine issues that were published contain a wealth of valuable
information for the native plant gardener. These are still available, some as
back issues, some as reprints. In the index below, the issues are described by
the lead article only; there are informative articles, anecdotes, and lots more
in each issue. Each plant description includes information about water needs,
size at full growth and pruning requirements. Plants are selected for their
desirability in a garden setting.
The
prices are based on the number of pages in the issue.
|
#1 |
19
Drought Tolerant Evergreen Flowering Shrubs |
$5 |
|
#2 |
Trees
for the Home Garden |
$5 |
|
#3 |
Plants
for Shade and Part Shade |
$5 |
|
#4 |
Ceanothus |
$8 |
|
#5 |
Container
Plants |
$5 |
|
#6 |
Bulbs
of California |
$8 |
|
#7 |
Calochortus |
$5 |
|
#8 |
Vines |
$5 |
|
#9 |
Southern
California Perennial Borders |
$5 |
|
#10 |
Northern
California Perennial Borders |
$5 |
|
#11 |
Groundcovers |
$5 |
|
#12 |
Deciduous
Shrubs |
$5 |
|
#13 |
Manzanita |
$8 |
|
#14 |
Screens
and Hedges |
$5 |
|
#15 |
Annuals
for Quick and Lasting Color |
$5 |
|
#16 |
Food |
$5 |
|
#17 |
Summer
Bloom |
$5 |
|
#18 |
Sierra
Perennials and Shrubs |
$5 |
|
#19 |
Plants
for Dry Shade |
$5 |
|
#20 |
Water
Spots |
$5 |
|
#21 |
Grasses |
$8 |
|
|
with
eight grass supplements |
$12 |
|
#22 |
Medicinal
Plants |
$6 |
|
#23 |
Butterfly
Gardening |
$8 |
|
#24 |
The
Sages |
$6 |
|
#25 |
Berry-bearing
Bushes for Birds |
$6 |
|
#26 |
Flowers
for Fragrance |
$6 |
|
#27 |
Trees
for the Small Garden |
$6 |
|
#28 |
Long-Blooming
Flowers |
$6 |
|
#29 |
Low
Growing Groundcovers |
$6 |
|
#30 |
Hedge
and Specimen Plants for the English Garden Look |
$6 |
|
#31 |
Pacific
Coast iris |
$6 |
|
#32 |
Hummingbird
Plants |
$8 |
|
#33 |
Perennials
for Cutting |
$6 |
|
#34 |
Winter
Bloom |
$6 |
|
#35 |
Fast
and Easy Shrubs |
$6 |
|
#36 |
Tropical
Lush Look |
$6 |
|
#37 |
Restoring
California |
$6 |
|
#38 |
(More)
Deciduous Shrubs and Trees |
$6 |
|
#39 |
Dudleya |
$6 |
|
#40 |
(More)
Medicinal Plants |
$6 |
|
#41 |
Ferns |
$6 |
|
#42 |
Lupines |
$6 |
|
#43 |
White
Night Flowers |
$6 |
|
#44 |
Moist
Woodland Perennials |
$6 |
|
#45 |
Penstemons |
$6 |
|
#46 |
Theodore
Payne’s Favorites |
$6 |
|
#47 |
Annuals
(More) |
#6 |
|
#48 |
Oaks |
$9 |
|
#49 |
Songbirds
and How to Attract Them |
$6 |
|
#50 |
Phacelia |
$6 |
|
#51 |
Coastal
Fog (and some shade and salt) |
$6 |
|
#52 |
Erosion |
$6 |
|
#53 |
SoCal
Perennials and Shrubs (More) |
$6 |
|
#54 |
Clay
Soil |
$6 |
|
#55 |
Sexual
Medical Plants |
$6 |
|
#56 |
Living
Big in a Small Space |
$6 |
|
#57 |
Hedgerows |
$6 |
|
#59 |
Lacey
Memories |
$6 |
|
#60 |
in
preparation |
$6 |
To
order, list the number and price of each and send, with check, to :Growing
Native, P O Box 489, Berkeley CA 94701
by Judith Larner Lowry
For
inspiration and an attitude adjustment, read this interesting book before
starting your new native garden. The author takes a philosophical position in
respect to nature and gardens, but stays very much attached to the earth with
good, sound information and recommendations in a highly readable format.
Get
out in the wild to observe how plants are distributed in respect to each other,
plant associations, soil, slope, sun, water—it’s all there for the learning.
Observe the same place in different seasons. There are many Orange County
locations with easy access. Guided tours are available. See the Field Trips
section for some suggestions.
These facilities provide an opportunity to see
plants in a cultivated setting. Visit especially in the dead of summer to see
what’s looking good when the heat’s on.
Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden
1500 North College Avenue
Claremont CA 91711, open daily, 9 to 5
Fullerton Arboretum—Chaparral Hill
Associated Road
Fullerton CA, open 8 AM to 4:45 PM
UCI Arboretum (natives
section in progress)
Campus Drive
Irvine CA, open Monday through Saturday, 9 to 3
Rancho
Santa Ana Botanic Garden offers a wide variety of classes and lectures. Late
Summer Native Garden Cleanup on Sunday, October 6, An Introduction to
Gardening with California Native Plants on Saturday October 19, Workshop
on Identification of the Asteraceae also on the 19th, and Hedges
and Screens using Native Plants are just a few of the many and varied
offerings.
Call
the Garden at 909-625-8767 x224 to request a class brochure. Information is
also available on the web at www.rsabg.org.
The
Orange County CNPS Native Plant Sale on Saturday, October
5 at the UCI Arboretum will be staffed by experienced Native Plant
gardeners who can help with plant choices and layout possibilities.
Rancho
Santa Ana Botanic Garden’s big sale is on November 2.It pays to be a member—members are allowed
in at 8 AM and get the best stuff.
Tree
of Life Nursery
is open for retail every Friday, and Saturdays in October and November. Again,
knowledgeable people will help with selection and their catalog is a treasure
trove of information.
Many
of the CNPS chapters offer horticultural guidelines on their websites. Go to
the State site, cnps.org, to find them.
Only
Butterfly Bush mars the high quality native landscaping around the San Joaquin
Wildlife Preserve along Michelson opposite the old Fluor Company buildings (now
Park Place) in Irvine. Take a look.
Upper
Newport Bay is a 752-acre estuary (plus 140 acres of coastal sage scrub
habitat) located in the upper part of Newport Harbor. Though famous for its
Aves, UNB remains a vital floral sanctuary just a lattés lob from suburbia in
all directions. A checklist of Upper Newport Bay flora by Bob Muns names 195
indigenous plants found at the reserve at one time or another. An additional
180 taxa have joined the party (that's 48% introduced species).
But
what is interesting is that the salt
marsh doesn't have any
weeds. It seems the salt marsh with its twice-daily tidal inundations, is
effectively hostile toward invasion. Twenty plus species inhabit the UNB salt
marsh system, dominated by its one species of cord grass, Spartina foliosa, a poa. Now these salt marsh plants don't need salt, they'll grow their tails off
in the freshest of water holes. But, for all their special adaptations, they
can't outcompete the vigor of staple freshwater plants, so they take to the
refuge of the salt.
We
gathered together on the morning of Sunday, June 30, to canoe up and down the
bay. While our focus would be on the abundant vegetation of the salt marsh, who
could resist taking in this place as a whole? With millions of liters of water
being acted upon by celestial forces, 15 million year old cliffs eased up 100
feet by geologic forces, and wildlife that is extremely visible and consistent
(compared to other ecosystems) Upper Newport Bay is inextricably all of these
things at once, a whole.
Before
we took to the boats, we walked a dry old path out into the marsh to observe
the resident endangered species, Cordylanthus
maritima (salt marsh bird's beak), which does very well here. It seems the
big problem for many of California's endangered Cordylanthus species is that they haven't enough estuaries. When
Bolsa Chica becomes a functioning estuary again, soon, C. maritima may
very well show up. The plant is four inches of flower, resembling a creme
colored Indian paintbrush. It is partially parasitic, seemingly on Distichlis spicata (salt grass), taking
advantage of the poa's high productivity and extensive root system. There may
be another endangered species here, Dudleya
stolonifera, the Laguna Beach liveforever; a hearty handshake to anyone who
can prove it. Along with the Cordylanthus,
we saw Batis maritima, Limonium
californicum, Salicornia spp., and a tiny two and one-half inch Limonium, blooming beautifully.
"There is a garden Limonium of
that size," says Celia. All of these plants are placed in archetypal
vernal pool formation around a muddy depression, chocolate chipped with horn
snails.
Upper
Newport Bay has likely been part of a functioning estuary since an ancient
river (not the Santa Ana) carved out this coastal canyon from soft rock 300,000
years ago. Not long after the last ice age, as the ocean began to rise,
brackish marsh flowed inland much further and a fresh marsh system expanded out
into the Tustin plains (ever heard of Swamp of the Frogs?). There were people
thriving here at the bay at that time, floating high on the waters in canoes of
tule (Scirpus spp.).
Paddling
from the dock at low tide, we head our canoes for the white cliffs, 12 - 25 myo
diatomaceous sediment from warm shallow seas of epochs past. A two-car garage
size portion of the bluff has recently fallen. High upon the steep chalky
bluffs are masses of Encelia californica,
looking as brittle as it gets at this time of the year. Dudleya lanceolata can be seen silhouetted above; Salicornia subterminalis (shrubby
pickleweed), and Sueda californica
keep just over the high water mark. Following the main channel, we are flanked
on both sides by mud and cord grass. It is here, to the left, where we can edge
right up on a three-foot wall of cord grass sod, draining its water load.
Looking right in, we can see the countless worm holes in the rich black mud and
the bluish painted crabs reflecting the morning sun. It is said the marsh is
four times as productive as a corn field, but this is definitely a
detritivore's economy. This is also where we see all the Batis maritima, Jaumea
carnosa, Limonium, Frankenia salina, and Salicornias that live inconspicuously amongst the Spartina. Hover flies hover, black
birds, sparrows, and swallows gossip and fuss.
Coming
up on our right is Big Canyon, a "freshwater" (turf irrigation)
marsh/riparian system, with its Typhas
and Juncus. Some trees of Orange
County are quite visible: Fremontia,
Populus, Platanus, Alnus, and Salix species. A terrific birding spot,
if that's your thing. We check out a little gas vent boiling up, indicative of
the 100 feet of historic marsh buried below.
The
main channel snakes left again, and then swings a long right, and we can
finally see just how big the place really is. The largest body of water, the
largest mud flats, the largest upland area, where the legendary Indian Springs
seep, are all quite a few paddles up into the bay. The bluffs straighten out
alongside and become lined with little houses on top. Carpobrotus sprawls a green blanket from top down; bougainvilla,
pampas grass, Algerian ivy, Brazilian pepper, all creep slowly away from their
yards, but the closer to the water the bluffs get, the more the natives are
able to hold their alkali ground.
The
washed out salt dike covered in Atriplex
marks our furthest point. The area beyond is off limits to humans, as are all
the secondary channels, islands, mudflats, and bluffs. Such tight regulation is
good considering the presence we already have here. And so we begin the
two-hour paddle back to dry dock, against the tide, against the wind, against
fatigue and canoe-butt. But that's how it goes; you can only ride the tide one
way. We rode it out.
On
the island again, the hard core CNPS'ers took to the other side of the island
where a salt marsh restoration had taken place. The restoration consisted
simply of backhoeing out a bunch of silt so the tide could come in. With that
tide came all the basic salt marsh plants, even the salt marsh bird's beak!
Since we couldn't go home without the Jepson being pulled out, the botanists
among us keyed out two Camisonia species.
This is the difference between a CNPS trip, and any other.
Special
thanks to all who made it, to Naturalist Bob Oberlin for helping out, and to
the Department of Fish and Game. See you next year!
—Todd
Heinsma, trip coordinator
Laguna
Coast Wilderness: 949-494-9352. For walks in
the Northern and Southern Reserves call The Nature
Conservancy at 949-832-7478.
Rancho
Mission Viejo Land Conservancy: 949-489-9778
Prepare for and follow up on our Shrub Identification Workshop! Fall walks with an emphasis on the shrubs of the Crystal Cove backcountry will take place on the third Saturday of the month: September 21, no October, November 16, and December 21. Meet at 9 AM at the ranger station. From PCH turn inland past El Morro School between Corona del Mar and Laguna Beach. There is a sign at the turn off. Parking is $3. Call or e-mail Sarah Jayne for more information: 949-552-0691 or sbjayne@cox.net